One of the key features of the Yale P-M550-CH-65 5 Lever Sashlock is its five-lever mechanism, which makes it much more difficult for intruders to pick or manipulate the lock. This mechanism is designed to be extremely difficult to bypass, which means that your property will be much more secure with this lock in place.

In addition to its high-quality construction, the lock is also incredibly easy to install. The lock comes with everything you need to install it quickly and easily, including detailed instructions and all the necessary mounting hardware. I found I had to widen the cut out with a multitool to allow this new lock to fit, as it was slightly wider than the replacement. Also the faceplate was thicker which meant I had to deepen the cut outs on the door to enable it to close.

Another great feature of the Yale P-M550-CH-65 5 Lever Sashlock is its stylish chrome finish. This finish not only looks great, but it also provides an added layer of protection against rust and corrosion. This means that your lock will continue to function properly for years to come, even in harsh weather conditions.

Finally, the lock is also backed by a comprehensive warranty from Yale, which means that you can trust in its quality and performance. With this lock in place, you can rest easy knowing that your property is well-protected against intruders and other unwanted visitors. But don’t be too complacent and look at our crime prevention pages for more information. Your door could come under a brute force attacks if there is only a lock in the middle of the door, which is why I was replacing it in the first place.

In conclusion, if you’re in the market for a high-quality, reliable lock for your home or office, the Yale P-M550-CH-65 5 Lever Sashlock is an excellent choice. With its advanced security features, durable construction, easy installation, and stylish chrome finish, this lock is sure to provide you with years of reliable protection and peace of mind.

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Moisture damage: One of the biggest issues with external wooden door frames is their susceptibility to moisture damage. Moisture can cause wood to expand and contract, leading to warping, cracking, and decay. This is particularly true for door frames that are exposed to rain, snow, and other weather elements. If left untreated, moisture damage can compromise the strength and stability of the frame, leading to structural issues and even safety hazards.

Insect infestation: Wooden door frames can also be vulnerable to insect infestation, particularly termites and wood-boring beetles. These pests can cause significant damage to the wood, leading to weakened structures and even collapse. It is important to inspect door frames regularly for signs of insect damage and take prompt action to prevent further infestation.

Paint and finish failure: Over time, the paint or finish on wooden door frames can wear off or crack, leaving the wood exposed to the elements. This can lead to further moisture damage, as well as discoloration and unsightly stains on the wood. To prevent this, it is important to regularly maintain and refinish the door frames.

Thermal expansion and contraction: Wooden door frames can also be affected by thermal expansion and contraction, particularly in areas with extreme temperature changes. This can cause warping and cracking of the wood, leading to gaps between the door frame and the wall. This not only compromises the aesthetic appeal of the frame but can also compromise the security of the door.

Age-related wear and tear: Like any other material, wooden door frames can also be subject to age-related wear and tear. This can include cracking, splitting, and general deterioration of the wood, particularly in older frames. If left unchecked, this can compromise the structural integrity of the door frame and pose safety hazards.

In conclusion, external wooden door frames are a popular choice for many homeowners due to their aesthetic appeal and natural warmth. However, they come with their fair share of issues that can compromise their durability, structural integrity, and aesthetics over time. To prevent these issues, it is important to regularly maintain and inspect door frames for signs of damage, and take prompt action to prevent further deterioration. With proper care, wooden door frames can last for many years, providing a beautiful and functional entrance to your home.

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I chose the 25 degree angle mount as the 15 degree option didn’t provide enough rotation, and the 50 and 60 degree options were too drastic for my needs. The 25 degree angle mount allowed me to see the edge of the door frame, which was exactly what I was hoping for.

The mount was specifically designed to fit smaller video doorbells such as Ring Wired (2021), Texxen & Cam, and it can be used on either the left or right side of the door. The mount was finished in black, which matched my Ring doorbell perfectly.

One of the things I appreciated about this corner mount is that it was designed to be compatible with both wooden frames and brick, which made installation a breeze. The ring camera uses its existing two security screws to screw into the wedge, which made the process quick and easy.

Overall, I would highly recommend the Gestech 25 Degree Angle Corner Mount for anyone who needs to angle their Ring or other compatible video doorbell. It’s a cost-effective and easy-to-install solution that provides just the right amount of rotation to capture the perfect view.

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The first thing that stood out to me about the Garden Flex Tub is its material. Unlike hard plastic buckets that can crack or break under the pressure of mixing concrete with a drill, the Garden Flex Tub is made of a flexible, durable material that can withstand the rigors of mixing heavy materials. This flexibility also means that the tub is less likely to deform or warp over time, making it a more reliable long-term investment.

Another benefit of this Tub is its size. At 43 litres, it’s larger than many other mixing containers on the market. This means you can mix more concrete at once, reducing the number of batches you need to make and saving you time in the long run. The size also makes it easier to mix the concrete thoroughly, ensuring that it’s consistent and strong.

In addition to its durability and size, the Garden Flex Tub is also easy to clean. The smooth surface of the tub means that concrete doesn’t stick to it as easily as it would to a rougher surface, making clean-up a breeze. Plus, the flexible material means that you can simply bend the tub to remove any excess concrete, rather than having to scrape it out with a tool.

Overall, I would highly recommend the 43-Litre Garden Flex Tub for anyone looking for a reliable, durable container for mixing concrete. Its flexible material, large size, and easy clean-up make it a great investment for anyone who plans on doing concrete work regularly. And at its affordable price point, it’s a smart choice for DIY enthusiasts and professionals alike.

You can see us using the tub to mix self leveller and concrete slurry.

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There are different methods of joining timber together, but in this blog post, we will focus on how to butt join timber using a nail plated and twisted nails.

Materials and Tools Needed:

Timber pieces to join
Nail plate
Twisted nails
Hammer
Measuring tape
Pencil
Saw
Step-by-Step Guide:

Step 1: Measure and Cut the Timber

The first step is to measure the timber pieces you want to join and mark them with a pencil. Use a measuring tape to ensure that the pieces are the same length. Then, cut the timber pieces to the desired length using a saw.

Step 2: Prepare the Nail Plate

Next, prepare the nail plate. A nail plate is a metal plate with holes that are used to connect timber pieces together. You can purchase a nail plate from any hardware store. To prepare the nail plate, place it on a flat surface and bend the protruding prongs upwards using a hammer. This will prevent the plate from moving during the nailing process.

Step 3: Position the Timber Pieces

Position the timber pieces together to create the desired length. Make sure the ends are flush and the joints are straight.

Step 4: Attach the Nail Plate

Now, place the nail plate over the joint, making sure that it is centered on the joint. Using a hammer, nail the plate into the timber pieces by driving the twisted nails through the holes in the nail plate and into the timber. Make sure to nail both sides of the plate to secure the joint.

Step 5: Finish Up

Finally, inspect the joint to ensure that it is secure and straight. If necessary, tap the timber pieces with a hammer to adjust their position. Sand the joint to smooth out any rough edges or surfaces.

Conclusion:

Butt joining timber using a nail plate and twisted nails is a simple and effective method of joining timber pieces together to make them longer. By following the steps outlined above, you can create a strong and sturdy joint that will last for years to come. Remember to always measure and cut the timber pieces accurately and use a nail plate to reinforce the joint,

You can watch our video here

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Step 1: Identify Loose Slabs

The first step in restoring your slab garden path is to identify which slabs are loose or uneven. Walk along the path and look for any areas where the slabs are wobbling, sinking, or rocking. Use a small pry bar or chisel to lift each slab and determine whether the base underneath is stable. If the base is unstable, you may need to dig out the area and replace it with fresh, compacted gravel.

Step 2: Mix Slurry

Once you have identified the loose slabs, it’s time to mix up a batch of slurry. Slurry is a mixture of water, cement, and sand that is used to create a thin layer of bonding material between the slab and the base. Mix one part Portland cement to two parts sharp sand in a bucket, and then add water gradually until the mixture is smooth and creamy. You want the slurry to be thick enough to stick to the trowel but not so thick that it’s difficult to spread.

Step 3: Apply Slurry

Using a trowel, apply a thin layer of slurry to the base where the slab will sit. Make sure the slurry covers the entire area and is level with the surrounding base. Carefully lower the slab onto the slurry, making sure it is level and flush with the surrounding slabs. Tap the slab gently with a rubber mallet to ensure it is firmly in place.

Step 4: Mix Nexus Epoxy Resin

Once you have all the slabs in place, it’s time to grout the gaps between them using Nexus Epoxy Resin. Nexus is an epoxy resin that is ideal for use in outdoor applications because it is highly durable and resistant to weathering. Mix equal parts with some water in a bucket, and then stir thoroughly for at least two minutes.

Step 5: Apply Nexus Epoxy Resin

Using a small trowel or grout float, spread the Nexus Epoxy Resin over the gaps between the slabs. Make sure to push the resin down into the gaps, ensuring that there are no air pockets. Smooth the surface of the resin with the trowel, making sure it is level with the top of the slabs. Allow the resin to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 6: Finish

Brush off any residue off the surface of the slabs. If necessary, you can use a jointing tool or small brush to smooth out any rough edges. Finally, allow the resin to dry completely before walking on the path.

Conclusion

Restoring slab garden paths can be a simple and cost-effective way to improve the appearance and safety of your outdoor space. By using a combination of slurry and Nexus Epoxy Resin, you can fix loose slabs and create a durable and long-lasting grouting solution. Follow these steps to ensure your path is restored to its former beauty and functionality.

You can watch our transformation here using our slurry mix and nexus fusion epoxy sand.

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To make a slurry mix for paving slabs, you will need the following materials and tools:

• Portland cement
• Water
• Bonding agent or additive (optional)
• Mixing bucket or container
• Stirring tool (such as a trowel or paddle mixer)

Here are the steps to make a slurry mix for paving slabs:

1. In a mixing bucket or container, combine the Portland cement and water in a ratio of approximately 1:1.5. This means that for every 1 part Portland cement, you will need 1.5 parts water. You can adjust the ratio slightly depending on the consistency you want to achieve.
2. Stir the mixture thoroughly using a stirring tool such as a trowel or paddle mixer. The consistency should be pourable, but not too thin or watery.
3. If desired, add a bonding agent or additive to the mixture. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the amount to use.
4. Pour the s mix onto the surface of the paving slabs, using a trowel or float to spread it evenly over the surface. Work in small sections to avoid the mix drying out too quickly.
5. Once the mix is applied, use a broom or brush to sweep it into the gaps between the paving slabs. Make sure the slurry mix fills the gaps completely, but doesn’t overflow onto the surface of the slabs.
6. Allow the slurry mix to dry and cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions before walking or driving on the paved area. This typically takes several hours or overnight.

Remember to wear appropriate protective equipment, such as gloves and a mask, when handling cement and other construction materials.

We used this along with Nexus fusion resin sand to restore our path. Watch this video to find out how we made the slurry.

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The method we are going to use comprises of the original deck, vapour barrier, PIR insulation , new deck and rubber roof. Make sure it is suitable for your requirements and that the manufacturers instructions are adhered too. This is how we constructed our roof:

Step 1: Remove the old roof material

To construct a warm flat EPDM rubber roof you firstly need to consider why you are doing this. If you have an existing roof that is in good condition, you may want to use this as the vapour barrier. In our case we had a felt roof, and it was only when we starting deconstruction we realised how much it must have been leaking. We had a felt roof so I removed it using a spade. In the process bitumen marked the UPVC window, glass and brick. If this happens to you we have instructions on how to remove it here.

Step 2: Inspect and Replace Deck and Joists

There is no point building a new roof on old damaged deck. We replaced parts of the deck that was rotten with new OSB3 boards . Removing these rotten boards then uncovered damage to joists so we also ended up replacing two of these. As these were required quickly we were constrained with stock in the local store which was too short. If you need to make a longer joist you can watch our video here.

Step 3: Primer the Boards with FG35

Having replaced the boards the next stage to construct a warm flat EPDM rubber roof requires covering them with primer. FG35 primer is recommended for use with Alutrix Vapour Barrier. You can see our video here on how we applied this. We found the best method was to brush it on with a shed brush.

Step 4: Fit Alutrix Vapour Barrier

After the FG35 primer is a hard tack suitable to walk on it is now possible to lay the Alutrix Vapour barrier. Ensure you don’t being gravel up on your feet. Its best to use rubber soled shoes as you are less likely to stick. Using a pair of scissors cut enough Alutrix off to fit. Peel back the backing tape and stick to the wooden deck,. Ensure to overlap each sheet by the indicated amount. To install Alutrix you will probably need to be wearing shades, and suntan cream as there is significant solar reflection.

At this stage of the build the roof is water tight and if the weather breaks can be left. Do not proceed to the next stage until you are ready to finish the job as this will make a swimming pool!

Step 5: Extend the wall perimeter with wood

Extend the wall perimeters upwards by the height of the insulation, in our case it was 150mm. When fixing avoid going through the Alutrix and attach to the side of the building. Brackets all the corners and ensure a firm stable finish.

Step 6: Fit the fascia board

Selecting the fascia board will be indicated by the height of the top of the insulation to where on the brickwork it needs to run. In our case the height was to great for fascia board and the only choice was soffit board or cladding. Soffit board is the quicker cheaper option. Hollow soft board is not weatherproof. If using sofit board lift into place and clamp. Hammer in plastic headed nails to afix.

Step 7: Fit the roof extension for water drip

If you have a gutter, then you can ensure the water drains into this by building an extension. To do this you need to use treated timber and attach it to the top of the facia board so that it protrudes and water woyld fall off into the gutter. Ensure it just overlaps the gutter at this point, as there is still rubber roof trim to be applied.

Step 8: Alutrix the inside of the wood height extension

Cut strips of Alutrix to overlap on the existing deck and go up the side of the height extension. To do this you will need to use a penny roller to get a good right angle bend and seam roller to fix to all the wood firmly. At this point no water can drain out from your roof.

Step 9: Fill with PIR insulation board

Fill the roof with PIR insulation board in a break bonded fashion. The insulation must be tightly packed together. If you need to cut any use a wood saw. Ensure the branding is pointing face upwards.

Step 9: Fill gaps with Expanding foam

Fill the gaps with expanding foam. This will expand over the board but remove any overspill with a flat bladed knife.

Step 10: Build a new deck over the insulation

The next job is to build a new deck over the insulation. This should be designed to take the load required. On our roof there would be little load so we opted for a lighter 11mm OSB board. This needs fastening to the original deck using thermal broken fittings.

Step 11: Lift and rest the EPDM rubber

Don’t under estimate the weight of the EPDM rubber. We opted for commercial grade. The weight of this was in excess of what I can lift for only 25m2. Find a method to get this on the roof. In the end we rigged a pulley system but there are other equally genius systems. The weight of the rubber put my heart out of rhythm so take care! Now unroll the rubber, again this is initially a heavy job. Once in place check the over hangs on each side. Hint: we added an additional 10cm’s to manufacturers calculation and was glad of the extra excess which meant our positioning did not have to be so careful. But this adds to the cost. The EPDM needs to rest as advised by the manufacturer.

Step 12: Glue down the EPDM rubber

Use the advised glue for the system of rubber chosen. Instructions may vary . Roll back the EPDM to the half way mark. Draw a mark of about 10cm of the edge of the deck which is where you need to glue to. Starting near the roll paint on the glue to the deck in 1 meter strips. Unroll the rubber onto this strip and ensure adhesion. Repeat for the other side. Consider how you are going to do this because at some stage you will need to move the ladder so don’t get stranded. We advise you always have a mobile when working on the roof so you can call for assistance if needed.

Step 13: Glue the edges of the EPDM

Use the advised glue . You will now be gluing down the last 10cm of rubber. Take care as you are working on the edge of the roof with chemicals. Make sure oyu don’t drip any glue down the facia board.

Step 14: Nail in the edge trims and glue in the corners

Nail in the edge trims using plastic topped nails. Cut any to size with a saw. Super glue in the corner pieces. Over any joins of the trims there will be plastic clips to hide the join.

Congratulations – you now have a new rubber roof!

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Instructions to remove tar

I was looking in my shed for a product that could easily remove tar. I decided to give the WD40 as this is oil based and it cleans oil of engines. Oil is a major component in tar so here was a similarity.

To clean the plastic, glass and brick that had got tar on it, I firstly put on a par of disposable gloves to protect my hands. Then I started by spraying liberally with WD40. I used a washing up sponge and rubbed down the area with the smooth side on upvc plastic windows frames, drain pipes and glass panels. On a brick wall which also had tar on it, I used the abrasive side. On the upvc plastic windows and glass I polished it with paper towel to make it look shiny and new. Very quickly I managed to remove the tar.

If you want to watch my attempt at removing tar you can see it here on you tube:

or as a short here

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