Firstly, it’s important to make sure that you have the right type of spade for the job. A flat spade with a sharp edge will work best for removing the felt. It’s also important to wear protective gloves and eyewear to prevent injuries.

To begin, start at the edge of the roof and insert the spade under the felt. Use a rocking motion to lift the felt, being careful not to damage the underlying structure. Once the felt has been lifted, use the spade to cut the felt into manageable sections. This will make it easier to remove and dispose of.

Continue working in sections, lifting the felt with the spade and cutting it into smaller pieces. As you work, be sure to inspect the underlying structure for any damage or deterioration that may need to be repaired.

It’s also important to note that removing torch-on felt can be a messy job, so be sure to have a way to dispose of the old felt and any debris that may be generated during the process.

Overall, using a spade to remove torch-on felt from a flat roof can be an effective method if done correctly. By using the right tools and taking the necessary precautions, you can safely and efficiently remove the old felt and prepare the roof for new roofing material. You can watch our video here. If you are looking on advise on how to construct and build a warm flat roof then read the steps we took to construct ours.

The post Removing torch-on felt from a flat roof appeared first on woozle.blog.

The method we are going to use comprises of the original deck, vapour barrier, PIR insulation , new deck and rubber roof. Make sure it is suitable for your requirements and that the manufacturers instructions are adhered too. This is how we constructed our roof:

Step 1: Remove the old roof material

To construct a warm flat EPDM rubber roof you firstly need to consider why you are doing this. If you have an existing roof that is in good condition, you may want to use this as the vapour barrier. In our case we had a felt roof, and it was only when we starting deconstruction we realised how much it must have been leaking. We had a felt roof so I removed it using a spade. In the process bitumen marked the UPVC window, glass and brick. If this happens to you we have instructions on how to remove it here.

Step 2: Inspect and Replace Deck and Joists

There is no point building a new roof on old damaged deck. We replaced parts of the deck that was rotten with new OSB3 boards . Removing these rotten boards then uncovered damage to joists so we also ended up replacing two of these. As these were required quickly we were constrained with stock in the local store which was too short. If you need to make a longer joist you can watch our video here.

Step 3: Primer the Boards with FG35

Having replaced the boards the next stage to construct a warm flat EPDM rubber roof requires covering them with primer. FG35 primer is recommended for use with Alutrix Vapour Barrier. You can see our video here on how we applied this. We found the best method was to brush it on with a shed brush.

Step 4: Fit Alutrix Vapour Barrier

After the FG35 primer is a hard tack suitable to walk on it is now possible to lay the Alutrix Vapour barrier. Ensure you don’t being gravel up on your feet. Its best to use rubber soled shoes as you are less likely to stick. Using a pair of scissors cut enough Alutrix off to fit. Peel back the backing tape and stick to the wooden deck,. Ensure to overlap each sheet by the indicated amount. To install Alutrix you will probably need to be wearing shades, and suntan cream as there is significant solar reflection.

At this stage of the build the roof is water tight and if the weather breaks can be left. Do not proceed to the next stage until you are ready to finish the job as this will make a swimming pool!

Step 5: Extend the wall perimeter with wood

Extend the wall perimeters upwards by the height of the insulation, in our case it was 150mm. When fixing avoid going through the Alutrix and attach to the side of the building. Brackets all the corners and ensure a firm stable finish.

Step 6: Fit the fascia board

Selecting the fascia board will be indicated by the height of the top of the insulation to where on the brickwork it needs to run. In our case the height was to great for fascia board and the only choice was soffit board or cladding. Soffit board is the quicker cheaper option. Hollow soft board is not weatherproof. If using sofit board lift into place and clamp. Hammer in plastic headed nails to afix.

Step 7: Fit the roof extension for water drip

If you have a gutter, then you can ensure the water drains into this by building an extension. To do this you need to use treated timber and attach it to the top of the facia board so that it protrudes and water woyld fall off into the gutter. Ensure it just overlaps the gutter at this point, as there is still rubber roof trim to be applied.

Step 8: Alutrix the inside of the wood height extension

Cut strips of Alutrix to overlap on the existing deck and go up the side of the height extension. To do this you will need to use a penny roller to get a good right angle bend and seam roller to fix to all the wood firmly. At this point no water can drain out from your roof.

Step 9: Fill with PIR insulation board

Fill the roof with PIR insulation board in a break bonded fashion. The insulation must be tightly packed together. If you need to cut any use a wood saw. Ensure the branding is pointing face upwards.

Step 9: Fill gaps with Expanding foam

Fill the gaps with expanding foam. This will expand over the board but remove any overspill with a flat bladed knife.

Step 10: Build a new deck over the insulation

The next job is to build a new deck over the insulation. This should be designed to take the load required. On our roof there would be little load so we opted for a lighter 11mm OSB board. This needs fastening to the original deck using thermal broken fittings.

Step 11: Lift and rest the EPDM rubber

Don’t under estimate the weight of the EPDM rubber. We opted for commercial grade. The weight of this was in excess of what I can lift for only 25m2. Find a method to get this on the roof. In the end we rigged a pulley system but there are other equally genius systems. The weight of the rubber put my heart out of rhythm so take care! Now unroll the rubber, again this is initially a heavy job. Once in place check the over hangs on each side. Hint: we added an additional 10cm’s to manufacturers calculation and was glad of the extra excess which meant our positioning did not have to be so careful. But this adds to the cost. The EPDM needs to rest as advised by the manufacturer.

Step 12: Glue down the EPDM rubber

Use the advised glue for the system of rubber chosen. Instructions may vary . Roll back the EPDM to the half way mark. Draw a mark of about 10cm of the edge of the deck which is where you need to glue to. Starting near the roll paint on the glue to the deck in 1 meter strips. Unroll the rubber onto this strip and ensure adhesion. Repeat for the other side. Consider how you are going to do this because at some stage you will need to move the ladder so don’t get stranded. We advise you always have a mobile when working on the roof so you can call for assistance if needed.

Step 13: Glue the edges of the EPDM

Use the advised glue . You will now be gluing down the last 10cm of rubber. Take care as you are working on the edge of the roof with chemicals. Make sure oyu don’t drip any glue down the facia board.

Step 14: Nail in the edge trims and glue in the corners

Nail in the edge trims using plastic topped nails. Cut any to size with a saw. Super glue in the corner pieces. Over any joins of the trims there will be plastic clips to hide the join.

Congratulations – you now have a new rubber roof!

The post How to construct a warm flat EPDM rubber roof appeared first on woozle.blog.

Where is the vapor barrier installed?

In the context of a warm roof, the vapor barrier is typically installed on the warm side of the insulation layer. This means that in a typical sloped roof assembly, the vapor barrier would be installed on the interior side of the roof deck, just below the insulation. The purpose of this placement is to prevent warm, moist air from the interior of the building from migrating into the insulation and condensing on the underside of the roof deck.

Vapor barrier materials

There are several different types of materials that can be used as a vapor barrier in a warm roof assembly. Some common options include polyethylene sheeting, foil-faced kraft paper, and specialized vapor barrier membranes. The choice of material will depend on factors like the climate, the type of insulation being used, and the local building codes.

It’s important to note that proper installation of a vapor barrier is crucial to its effectiveness. The vapor barrier must be continuous and free from tears or punctures, and must be sealed tightly around any penetrations like pipes, vents, or electrical wiring. Any gaps or imperfections in the vapor barrier can allow water vapor to pass through, which can compromise the insulation and lead to moisture problems.

In addition to preventing moisture problems, a properly installed vapor barrier can also help to improve the energy efficiency of a building. By reducing the amount of warm, moist air that enters the insulation, the vapor barrier can help to maintain a consistent temperature and reduce the amount of heat loss through the roof.

In conclusion, a vapor barrier is a critical component of a warm roof assembly. By preventing moisture from entering the insulation and the structural components of a building, a vapor barrier can help to prevent problems like mold, mildew, and rot. Proper installation is key, and choosing the right material will depend on the climate and other factors. By including a high-quality vapor barrier in your warm roof design such as Alutrix 600, you can help to ensure a durable, energy-efficient building that will stand the test of time.

The post What is a vapor barrier in a warm roof? appeared first on woozle.blog.

Improved energy efficiency benefits of a warm roof

One of the primary benefits of a warm roof construction is improved energy efficiency. The insulation in a warm roof construction is placed on top of the roof deck. This means that the roof space stays warm. Warm roofs eliminate the possibility of cold spots and reduces heat loss through the roof. A benefit resulting in lower heating costs and improved energy efficiency.

Reduced condensation

Another benefit of a warm roof construction is reduced condensation. In a cold roof construction, the insulation is placed in between the roof joists. The location of the insulation can create cold spots in the roof space. When warm, moist air comes into contact with these cold spots, it can lead to condensation. This can cause damage to the roof structure and lead to mold growth. With a warm roof construction, there are no cold spots, which reduces the risk of condensation.

Increased lifespan benefits of a warm roof

A warm roof construction can also increase the lifespan of the roof. The insulation on top of the roof deck protects the roof structure from temperature fluctuations. Reduced temperature fluctuations prevent expansion and contraction. This can lead to cracking and other damage to the roof structure. With a warm roof construction, the roof structure is protected from temperature fluctuations, which can help to extend its lifespan.

Improved comfort

A warm roof construction can also improve the comfort of a building. With the insulation on top of the roof deck, the roof space is kept warm, which can help to maintain a more consistent indoor temperature. This can lead to improved comfort and a more pleasant living or working environment.

Faster installation

Finally, a warm roof construction can be faster to install than a cold roof construction. With a warm roof construction, the insulation is simply placed on top of the roof deck, while with a cold roof construction, the insulation must be placed between the roof joists. This can be a more time-consuming process, which can increase the overall cost of the roof construction.

In conclusion, a warm roof construction offers a number of benefits over a cold roof construction. These benefits include improved energy efficiency, reduced condensation, increased lifespan, improved comfort, and faster installation. While there are situations where a cold roof construction may be more appropriate, a warm roof construction is generally the better option for most buildings.

The post The benefits of a warm roof over a cold roof appeared first on woozle.blog.

In our tiny house project to create a garage annex I needed to dig a trench and backfill in a tarmac drive without using an excavator. The purpose of this trench was to run the mains drainage. The trench is also suitable for an armoured cable, water, drainage or many other uses. The principle also applies on how to dig a trench in the garden. To dig a trench takes a lot of planning. The trench must apply to building regulation standards code and I will cover these in a later post.

I inspected the driveway for signs of previous trenches as these could indicate services may be in the area where you need to dig. Using a marker pen running along a piece of wood I marked a straight line to cut, although it is also possible to use spray paint to mark the area to dig.

There is a lot of personal protection equipment for this job which included:

• Ear defenders as some of the equipment is loud.
• Googles to prevent stones flying into your eyes.
• Mask as the job is dusty.
• Gloves, initially I used regular building gloves and then for using the compacting vibration plate switched to anti-vibration gloves.
• Steel toe cap boots to protect your feet.

Digging the trench

To cut the tarmac I used an angle grinder with a concrete blade. As I was using 240V power, I plugged into an RCD protected socket. Before I started cutting, I made sure the ground was clear from any stones that might fly up and injure me. Using the angle grinder, I cut along the line marked.

I made two tramlines in the tarmac and used a breaker to cut it into chunks. To start breaking up the tarmac I chopped it at the edge of the trench using a cheap Macalister breaker from Screwfix. I cut the tarmac into large chucks and disposed of it.

In driveway construction, Tarmac is usually laid on MOT hardcore. I had to dig this out followed by the earth. To keep the driveway cleaner I should have laid some tarpaulin to put the spoil on. Our trench also was full of old bricks which made digging difficult so I used a combination of the breaker, spade and hands to remove all the spoil from the trench. I measured the trench frequently to ensure it did not exceed the depth required and also for motivation!

I had to watch out for any hidden services. If you find any services that are in the ground they should be indicated with a tape warning. Here is an example of a power cable running across the trench.

Once at the desired depth I laid the drains. I will post a separate article on this.

Backfill the trench

I back filled over the services with pea shingle.

I covered the pipework to the level indicated by the manufacturer. I filled in the trench with some of the spoil and then topped with hardcore MOT. To calculate the quantities required I went to the supplier’s website where it listed the coverage. I then compacted the hardcore with a single pass of my compactor plate. For groundwork I had purchased a Scheppach HP1200 vibration compactor plate. You can find my review on it here.

I sprayed the edges of the trench where the existing tarmac would join with cold lay sealer, which comes out like black spray paint. Then I filled up my trench with cold lay tarmac.

The bags indicated their capacity to fill the trench, so yI had to perform some calculations to make sure I had enough. I found the tarmac compressed more than indicated so I needed to get some more.

Here you can watch me build my trench.

The post How to dig a trench and backfill in a tarmac drive appeared first on woozle.blog.